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I bought this car a little over a year ago for $ 1000 because I thought I could start and drive it without any problems. When I checked it out before buying it, it worked decently with the old consumption / carbs settings and from what I could tell the body seemed to be in pretty good shape.
It was delivered to my house the day after I bought it and I started working on all transmission / wiring as it was a bit broken. It took me about three months to get it fixed (got a “new” harness, redesigned the entire power distribution etc), started the engine really well with a new manifold and intake manifold, a new mega-shifter and all new fluids. I got it before I was able to get it working and it felt really great even though everything was working fine.
Floor Pan Rust Repair Fiberglass
When I had to work under the car, I noticed something was wrong on the parquet board on the driver’s side and on the floor where the rear seats are located. I didn’t think much about it, I thought it was just a kind of heat shield that will rust as the floor around it was hard and didn’t look rusty from below.
Repairing The Floor Pan With Rust Bullet And Fiberglass On A 1979 Toyota Pickup Mini Cruiser
It’s been a month since I wasn’t working on the car through school so it was as it is when all the systems were working but the cabin was old and bad so when I got back to work on the car that’s what I started with. I saw some surface rust on the gearbox tunnel near the shifter and finally pulled up the carpet to find a ton of rust and really, really bad repairs.
It looks like some previous owner replaced the entire rear part of the pallet with a pallet from another car because it must have been so rusty. It’s a pity they’ve done such a terrible job every weld will rust.
I decided to just cut the back piece completely and buy a clipping from the car in a landfill as I couldn’t find the back piece anywhere on the internet.
Now about all the work and progress I’ve made recently. I put the project on hold for the summer because at that time I ran out of project money which meant I couldn’t buy the front flooring.
Rust Repair Using Fiberglass Without Welding (pt. 2)
Wish I had more photos to post in the last few months but my phone broke and I lost all the photos I had on it.
I finally went back to the design two weeks ago and started cutting all the old front floors. I wanted the installation of the new floors to be fairly limited, so I bypassed each spot welding and drilled them with Eastwood spot welding cutters. They are the perfect tool if you are thinking of working with the floor and want to remove old metal very cleanly.
Here are my progress for tonight. I have one front driver exit seat and then I will be ready to clean all frame rails / rockers and paint them with primer.
No other part of the car was rusty. There is almost no rust on the frame rails, even though it is not known how long they have been under all the rusty floors.
Full Floorpan Rust Repair
Where the seam is on the floor, it is almost the degree of rust. I’m really surprised it didn’t leak the black seam sealant and rot the rocker.
I have to cut the seam on the hump here, because the person who did the previous “repair” ruined it, and it rusts to a point where it won’t end up on my donor palette. Good thing I have a piece to match my donor bowl
I was able to put a new floor on the passenger side of the car and it fits very well although I wasn’t too prepared. I am very happy with them. I got them at the Summit and paid $ 650 for a pair.
Now the whole thing is pretty rough as it is only at the disassembly / testing / cleaning stage. Once the car is ready for the floor, I cut the donor back with a special clip to make sure it is perfectly straight with the new front pallets, and I will do the same with the rear seam above the differential.
Repair Or Replace Floor Pan?
I expect to mount a driver-side floor test tomorrow, so the progress pictures will fit that too. I also realize that it is a lot of work for such a normal car that can be done without rust, but I wanted to stay with the car and pass a great test, not just scrape it.
I also bought a floor at Summit. I was impressed. I didn’t cut the entire floor, just what I needed. Keep it up!
Got a front on the driver’s side tonight. It took much longer than it should have been. I thought it would be much easier to remove this piece due to the weakened rusty metal but it made it much more difficult as I wasn’t sure if I was getting every spot welding or not.
The front rocking area may look quite rusty, but most of the rust is on the floor, which is still attached to the rocker panel. I was too exhausted to get it from my front extension.
Tip Top Floor Pans
All the rust that doesn’t stay on the floor is just a light surface rust that I can get with a sander.
My goal tomorrow is to install the driver side test tray and trim the rear pan to fit the new front cups. Hope to get all three parts right away to see the full floor car again in 8 months
The driver tray is finally installed. This is the first time I see a car with its true shape and I’m very excited about it.
This part goes between the frame and the back panel, but I can’t press it in as the back and the bezel are now connected.
Splicing A 1963 Corvette Floor Pan. Using A Homemade Fiberglass Mold Saving A Wrecked Split Part 8
Great job so far! You are ambitious enough to replace the entire pan. What are you going to do with the seat mounting brackets? Do they reproduce them?
Thank you! During all of this, I was concerned about the mounting brackets for the seats, because no place duplicates them. I think Bruce from Hawks can cut some parts from the cars although if you call him I’ll probably have to do it.
Great job nice to see you! I will do the same on my car and wanted to ask if your car has a t-top and if you had any concerns about body movement when you had the floor.
But I am even more concerned with the need to cut out such a key part of the car’s structure that prevents movement
Dakota Update 3 / Floor Repair Bondo And Resin
The car is a T-top and I had some concerns about the bodyshell movement when the floor is not working, but I’m not using any fixings and so far it’s fine. I corrected the deflection that was in the car before removing the engine and floors. I took it off the crossbar with a jack and placed supports under the front frame rails, then removed it from the jack and let the weight of the motor pull the deflection out.
If you are going to replace the torque blocks, I would really suggest welding a few pipes as extensions before removing the old floor. Two from the hill above the axis to the dam and somewhere diagonally. Considering rear traction boxes largely hold the front half of the car with the rear half, you’ll need a little extra attachment.
If you still need the brackets to mount the seat, I have a side aisle. I need a disk page for my project. I can cut them from my car parts for you $ 10 + shipping if I’m interested in PW.
Very ambitious! make sure the pans are as close to their original “height” as you can reach them … I know a guy who fitted new pallets to a 1980 corvette … they didn’t come all the way down …. about an inch .. everything looked great until he put the seat back … the driver’s seat was so high he couldn’t turn around!
Floor Board Rust Repair Question
I was able to work this week / weekend where I was able to trim my new back to the correct size as well as fit the new front pans very tight.
This space was caused by the edge below it, where the main seam of the bowl is welded to the rocker arm. It was bent by previous people picking the car up from there, or by the fact that the car was scratched on the road. This
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