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I picked up a broken hollow link bracelet for repair this week. The bracelet was caught in the desk drawer and exploded. I didn’t think it presented any particular problems until I looked ahead and noticed some previous repairs done by another jeweler.
In the pictures you can see that the chain is misaligned and there are huge balls of solder everywhere. These weren’t exactly invisible repairs.
How To Fix Broken Gold Necklace
It seemed such a simple fix, I almost never thought about it again. This is where it dawned on me that twenty years ago I couldn’t repair better than the first two. I struggled with rope chains for over ten years before finally discovering this method of reweaving them.
Different Types Of Difficult Chains To Repair
The first thing I do is remove all the broken pieces. I use a couple of end knives and cut all the bad links until I get two clean sides.
Then I take a small pair of scraps and cut a small piece off the side. Sometimes I use a sharpened disc and look at the side of the chain. The photo shows that I made an opening of about half a millimeter on the side of the chain.
Here most jewelers try to weave the two parts together and try to reconcile them. Try it instead. Go ahead and smear with boric acid a few times and then apply the green flux. Because the flux bubble rises when you heat it, it tends to move the lighter pieces of the chain in all directions. Here’s the trick. Go ahead and warm up the two sides and let the flux do its job.
The image shows how the flux expands and bubbles, causing the chain to move in many directions. After a few seconds it stops expanding and remains in the coating only on the chain. Once it is cool enough to touch, rub it between your fingers and break the bond of the flux between the links and make the chain flexible again. Some currents will drop, but not enough to affect the soldering.
Jewelry Repairs You Can Make Yourself
If you do this repair correctly, the broken connection will be lost in the chain, making it difficult to find your soldering point. I like to take a sharp marker and liberally paint the two joined sides. It helps me keep track of where my work is relative to the rest of the series.
Now I gently knit the two parts together and fasten on one side. I still don’t want to solder it completely because the heat will burn my sharp mark from the other side and I’ll have to spend 10 minutes to find it. In the photo you can see how I glued the two pieces together. Once I find my repair on the other side, I go forward and slide my solder completely between the two broken chain halves. Now I go back to the first side and finish the solder flow.
I brine the solder joint and check my work to make sure I’m happy with it. Now, trick number two. Solder joints are not polished yet, I will pay attention to where my repair is in relation to the figure. My maintenance lobster claw is on the side, 65mm from the end. Once I start polishing the bracelet, my repair piece disappears. As the photo shows, it’s nearly invisible to see, so I want to make a mental note of the right spot to make sure my work is clean and polished. Not all jewelry is created equal… and not all jewelry is repaired equally! If you have a broken necklace or bracelet that needs repair, you may experience mixed results with some jewelry to fix it. Worse, they reject you – but why? Read on to learn more about why your jewelers refuse to repair chains.
How is the chain repaired? Chains are usually easier to repair if they fall within the standard thickness of about 1.4mm. Depending on the type of chain, the jeweler can cut the open link in one of the two pieces, pass it through the other link, and close the fuse with solder, an easily melting metal alloy that acts like glue.
How To Fix A Broken Chain Necklace ( Diy Jewellery Repair )
However, other types of chains are less straightforward. For example, the way a chain of ropes is repaired and constructed makes it difficult to maintain its original integrity; The scope will be different from the rest of the series. Some chains don’t look the same even after repair. Here are some scenarios where a jeweler can reduce chain maintenance:
Rope chains are notorious for this construction: the design of the chain is hollow on the inside of the links. This is to reduce the weight of the metal and make the piece cheaper to sell. While this means that you can buy the necklace for a lower price, it also means that the item will be “crossed” in the place where the jeweler worked on it. In addition, the repair is not strong and will not withstand daily wear and tear over time. As a result, some jewelers will close the item to avoid potential problems with their customers.
Herringbone chains and other specially designed chains are almost complete when broken. Because these chains are composed of a series of fluid, interlocking flat links, when the chain is gripped, it “opens up” the entire structure. The links are usually very thin slices of metal and once bent it is almost impossible to return them to an acceptable position. Many jewelers don’t even attempt to repair with these pieces; However, we will take them and let the client know that the work areas will be highly visible. Our jeweler slowly bends and sets the chain in place with several probes; It then adjusts certain locations to retain links in less visible areas (such as backlinks).
If your necklace is made of an unconventional base metal like brass, bronze or copper, jewelers shouldn’t risk it. This is especially common if you have other components in your necklace, such as stones, charms, and pendants. Unknown metals can react very strangely to heat and the soldering process requires exposure to laser or flame. If the metal is hot, it can melt or burn, which can damage the chain and anything attached to it.
Necklace Chain Repair
In addition, the maintenance area does not match the rest of the series. Most jewelers do not have base metal solder, so they are predetermined to use silver solder. This will distort the overall color of the chain.
To avoid these problems, we first test the chain with a little heat for quick jewelry repairs. If it reacts badly, we’ll let the customer know that we can’t fix it. As a precaution, if it seems to be taking the heat well, we will remove any parts from the chain that could burn during the repair process before proceeding. The chain is then polished and replated if necessary to make the color uniform.
This copper necklace contained many plastic beads and stones. Our jeweler added links to the same metal and minimized the amount of soldering involved.
Some necklaces are plated with gold or rhodium to give them a certain color. The repair work will remove that plating, exposing the original color of the metal underneath. While some jewelers may not have the option to chain the gold plate, they will decline it to avoid problems with their customers.
Gold Chain Repair Cost: The Breakdown
An additional factor is the base metal of the chain. If the chain is plated with sterling silver gold, many jewelers should be able to re-gild it. However, unique metals are not easy to gild and if the jeweler determines that it is not easily suitable for the gilding process, they will not work.
Our jewelers can work with atypical jewelery metals that require plating. We do this by nickel plating the chain to chemically match it with the gold plating process, then we proceed to place it in our gold plated tank for the final color.
Now you know the reasons why your jeweler doesn’t repair the chain! If you’re experiencing this issue, drop us a line in the comments below and we’ll be able to help.
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